Well, it’s in New Orleans and its obit is in the NY Times.
Five days a week, 11 months a year, lines have formed outside the ramshackle building, which displays a sign from the long-defunct Jax Brewery in one window. On Good Friday this year, customers began arriving at 9 in the morning, even though the restaurant does not open for lunch, the only meal it serves, until 10:30. Soon there were more than 200 people in line, and the sun was setting as the last of the day’s 400-odd clients were being served.
All this with just 10 tables inside and 6 on the sidewalk outside.
Soon Uglesich’s will close forever, at least in its present form. Anthony and Gail Uglesich are exhausted, worn out by years of rising at 4:30 and working flat-out all day. Balding, bearlike, Mr. Uglesich, 66, told me he would shut the doors in mid-May, but he has renewed his liquor license, just in case he finds retirement miserable.
Man, this place is incredible. 16 tables total, and I had three of the best meals of my life there. For once I can read the NY Times’ Food page and say “I ate there!”
The last time I ate there, I had a dozen raw oysters (it was winter, or at least, as much winter as New Orleans gets), half a shrimp and oyster Po’ Boy and a plate of shrimp and grits. Mercy, was it good. I hate to see something like Uglesich go away. But it sounds like these folks have earned some down time.